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Future Trends: Ethnographics and the Trend Commandments
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February 19, 2004
These are questions ADASTRO addresses nearly every day of its
existence. Doing so is an essential component in helping our
clients make strategic, marketing and organizational changes that
radically enhance the value of their business enterprises. By
examining a broad spectrum of demographic, social, political,
economic, technological, legal, and environmental shifts, we
are able to develop strategies and recommendations that will
have a real and lasting effect on the future value of our
clients' businesses.
In November 2003, I had the opportunity to attend the IRR Future
Trends conference held in Miami's South Beach district. This
event gave me a chance to zoom in my focus and realign my aim by
looking at trends of a much briefer nature than the longer term
societal shifts that ADASTRO typically focuses on for its clients.
Trend questions of a shorter term nature might include: what
colors or clothing styles are going to be fashionable over the
coming year? What kind of television programs will people be
interested in watching next season? What will be popular in the
next year in terms of things like food, dance, automobiles,
interior design, electronics, sports and recreational activities?
How are people's attitudes changing towards big businesses,
towards saving and spending, and towards sex?
Having answers to these questions is absolutely critical to those
that market products and services that are affected by short term
fashions and trends. They need to be able to anticipate what
products to introduce into the market, decide where to spend their
advertising budget, and determine the right messages to convey
through their marketing activities, many months before the
products are introduced and the advertisements actually run.
In this article, I'll provide a review of three
sessions at the Future Trends conference that provided insight
into many of these issues.
An Introduction To Ethnographic Research
I spent the first day of the conference in a workshop devoted to
learning about and participating in ethnographic research--an
observation technique developed by anthropologists that involves
the systematic study of people as they go about their daily
lives. The workshop was led by Drs. Barbara Perry and Ruth
Sando, both of Barbara Perry Associates. There were 22 people in
the workshop, which consisted of a seminar followed by a
fieldwork exercise.
During the seminar we learned that while it is easy to collect a
lot of data on people's activities, in order to effectively predict
future behavior, you also need to understand the meaning behind the
data. Ethnography is used to understand behavior "in context." It
allows development of an "insider" perspective on people's values,
customs, beliefs, behaviors, and what drives each of those factors.
It asks "what do people do? How do they do it? and why do they do it
that way?" As Barbary Perry noted in her handout, quoting
anthropologist Clifford Geertz, "The trick is to figure out what the
devil they think they are up to."
The two main activities in the ethnographic process are observation
and interviewing. Observation of behavior involves immersion in the
environment in which behavior occurs. Detailed observations begin a
process that results in new connections, patterns and insights being
recognized by the researcher. Observations includes describing
observed behavior, describing individuals (grooming, dress, accent,
age, gender, etc.), and describing the physical environment as if
through the lens of a camera. It is a continual challenge to the
observer to remove their own assumptions and prejudices so that they
do not bias the observations and inhibit discovery.
Interviewing involves learning from people who are knowledgeable
about their lives in order to gain perception into the meaning of what
they do, to probe their beliefs, and to check the researcher's
assumptions. Direct quotes are recorded. Personal inferences,
emotional reactions, and hunches made by the observer or interviewer
are also recorded separately.
An ethnographic sample is typically fairly small and constructed to
be representative of a particular group. The goal is to find patterns
and clues that allow the researcher to get closer to understanding
how a target audience thinks. Sometimes researchers will go out into
the field to observe and interview, other times they will recruit
a group of individuals that they believe to be influencers in a
particular area, and then periodically observe, survey and/or
interview the members of the group to learn about their behaviors and
attitudes. In contrast to focus groups, which typically are
constructed in order to confirm hypotheses, ethnographic research
uses groups to make new discoveries and create new hypotheses.
Large companies such as GM, Intel and Kodak have staff carrying out
ethnographic research full time. Other organizations conduct the
research through outside consultants, while others assemble their
own cross-functional teams.
Ethnography produces both an external and an internal outcome. The
external outcome is the new insights that emerge, and the ability to
see and interpret events, opportunities, and messages as they will
be seen and interpreted by others.
The internal outcome is an opportunity to challenge assumptions that
would otherwise be difficult to challenge without the materials and
experience that ethnography provides. It allows self-reflection on
organizational beliefs that may be limiting the field of vision and
constraining organizational innovation and effectiveness.
During the seminar part of the workshop, we talked about how trends
evolve. Often they go through a series of phases where something
starts as a "fringe" activity, gets adopted by those on the "edge,"
enters into the "realm of cool," becomes the "next big thing," and
then becomes part of accepted social convention. The growth of the
Internet fits this model. Other trends come about because unexpected
catalysts create a radical shift in behavior. An increased focus
on security in the wake of the events of September 11, 2001 fits
this model. We talked about how some trends reach a "tipping point"
of sufficient adoption after which they are essentially unstoppable
in gaining momentum, while others fail to reach the tipping point
and wither. We talked about how some individuals seems to be key
influencers amongst their peers... they act as "dancing bees" that
bring a message that is adopted by the entire "hive."
For the fieldwork part of the workshop, we divided into teams of
three people and were sent into the trendy Lincoln Road Mall part of
South Beach (in the Miami area) on secret missions. We each took a
personality test to determine if we were "realists," "builders," or
"dreamers" and each team consisted of one person from each category.
I was the "builder" on our team. The "realist" on our team worked for
Samsung in Korea. The "dreamer" on our team worked for an advertising
agency in Connecticut.
The assignment for our team was to pose as interior decorators from
the firm "InVironments, Inc," a company that creates interiors for
residences and businesses that enhance the environmental experience.
We were to observe the venue in order to generate creative new ideas.
We made our observations at midday on Monday, November 17, 2003. It
was sunny and in the 80s (F). The Lincoln Road Mall is outdoors and
closed to automobile traffic, and it consists of shops and restaurants
which frequently extend well beyond the physical shop out into the
open mall area. The area is quite upscale, full of tropical/palm tree
foliage. People dress from very casual to trendy, and dogs on leashes
are commonplace.
We noticed quite a number of trends that would apply to our particular
mission. There was a heavy concentration of Asian and Indian
influence throughout the area, however, there was also a common
pattern that consisted of the blending of styles from multiple
cultures. This occurred not only in the design of the spaces, but
also in the many fusion-oriented food choices. Concentrations of bright
vibrant colors were often used against broad white or plain colored
backgrounds. Spot lighting was frequently used to accentuate an
interesting feature.
There was an overall trend towards simplicity in design. Small pieces
of furniture were often used in areas having a lot of open space. In
addition to using concentrated accents to make spaces visually
interesting, soft music and waterfalls provided an auditory element,
and incense or other aromas often added an olfactory element as well.
Overall the effect was of calmness and relaxation... I wondered
why there wasn't a place to stop and get a massage in Mall, because
it would have fit in very well with the other elements of the area.
Right in the middle of this commercial area was the Miami Beach
Community Church, which offered a place of refuge from the external
environment, and it reminded us that the work environment also needs
places of refuge where one can get away from interruptions and
reflect on things in quiet.
After completing our reconnaissance of the area and having lunch
at one of the sidewalk bistros, we met back up with the other
groups and compared notes. One of the other groups had the same
mission that my group had, so it was interesting to note the
differences in what we each had observed. There also truly did
seem to be fundamental differences between the observations
made by the realist, builder, and dreamer on our team, so the
strategy of putting us into teams consisting of individuals with
each of those personalities proved worthwhile.
Overall the brief field experience seemed to be a useful exercise
in getting us to think about and understand the complexities of
what would be involved in attempting to conduct a real ethnographic
study. We certainly could not have achieved the same level of
learning solely by listening to a lecture.
Ethnographic Research: An Application
Another session at the conference provided insight into an
actual case-study of the use of ethnographic research at a
well known commercial company. This session was presented
by Vicky Purnell, Senior Director of Marketplace Insights, Dockers,
Levi Strauss Signature Brand, and Barbara Bylenga, President, Outlaw
Consulting. The strategies discussed in this session are useful to
marketers that wish to expand their ability to understand their
consumers and predict future trends.
Apparel trends change quickly, and there is often a long lag time
between when a company must make product decisions and when those
decisions are realized in the marketplace. For example, during late
2003, Levi Strauss needed to make decisions on styles for the Spring
season of 2005.
Vicky Purnell described four tools that Levi Strauss uses to help
them anticipate the future. These include:
==> 1) Trendsetter Panels
Barbara Bylenga talked about how the trendsetter panels are created
and used. They recruit trendsetters in 3-5 "leading edge" cities.
Trendsetters range in age from kids through adults. In this particular
instance, a 1500 person "panel" consists of individuals from ages 15
to 39 in New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, and Chicago. The panel
is used to support both the Levi's and Docker brands. The groups are
segmented into three age groups and three behavior segments. They
recruit approximately 200 new panel members each year.
Trendsetters are NOT mainstream... they are forward thinking,
progressive individuals on the forefront of what is new and happening.
Trendsetters tend to innovate, and set trends for what will become
fashionable in the future, rather than follow the styles that are
currently in fashion. In the online world, I think that many of those
that blog on Livejournal or Myspace fit that description. Looking at
trendsetters allows one to understand upcoming mindset shifts, style
trends, and usage behaviors. It allows one to gain insights into
what may be coming through brainstorming, product development feedback,
strategy development, and generational understanding.
Trendsetters are never defined by usage. Whether or not they wear Levi's
is irrelevant to their selection as a trendsetter. Trendsetters are
paid for their time (with cash, not free product). They are selected
through field research rather than apply for the position. They go
through a three-phase review that include a face-to-face field interview
with and experienced interviewer, an agency review, and then a client
review.
Trendsetter panels break the four "Golden Rules of Research," which
prescribe that you should never establish a relationship with a
respondent, that you should limit past participation, keep incentives
small, and never disclose the client's identity. These rules are
replaced with new guidelines: 1) never incentive with product;
2) never "send 'em home"; 3) incentives are investments - pay well;
4) make projects fun; 5) respect their time - incent when canceling;
and 6) protect their privacy.
Internet resources are used throughout the process. Relationships with
panelists are often maintained through email and on-line surveys are
used with the panels. Online scrapbooks and photo galleries document
history. The data collected is proprietary, and a database is created
to allow Levi's with online access to panel data and results.
==> 2) The Fashion Forward Game
In the Fashion Forward Game, Levi's partnered with Sachs Insights to
develop a unique methodology. The objective was to understand
consumer's likes & dislikes around futuristic
clothing ideas. They looked at the viewpoints of mainstream
consumers, trendsetters, and futurists/anthropologists.
A game show approach was used to keep respondents involved and honest.
Similar in style to the Newlywed Game, respondents were recruited in
pairs of people that really know each other, and who will shop
together and talk about clothes together. This included both male/
female couples and "gal pals." The pairs were split up and one group
was shown various concepts, and asked to independently rate the
concepts as "Love it", "Like it", "Whatever", and "No Way." They also
were asked to talk about their reactions behind their ratings. The
second group was asked to predict how the other member of their pair
would react to the concept. The pairs then get back together and hold
up signs showing their answers at the same time. If they disagreed,
then they talked about their differences.
Levi's found that the Fashion Forward Game worked because it was fun,
with pairs getting into a competitive spirit, and they enjoyed
learning about how well they knew their partner. The game held their
attention, and they were not shy in pointing out why they thought
their significant others were wrong.
==> 3) Unmet Needs Ethnographies
For this research, Levi's partnered with Teri Gacek Associates to
understand consumer's hidden clothing dissatisfiers, focusing on
factors other than fit. They wanted to determine what consumers
wish that their clothing would do for them, and what they hate about
their current clothes. They conducted two exercises to learn from
their panelists.
In the "Suitcase Exercise," panelists were asked to pack a bag for
a week stay away from their home, assuming that they will need to
carry on their current life. They then asked the panelist to tell
them the story of every item in that bag, where it came from, why
they needed it, what it meant to them, etc. It enabled the researchers
to learn which items the panelists considered to be most important,
which items "work hardest" for people, and tricks that people might
not otherwise relate (for example - "I only need one pair of black
pants and 6 shirts and I can make it through the week.")
In the "Goodwill Bag" exercise, people were asked to tell the story
of the clothing items that they would give away to Goodwill. They
learned that these items fall into three categories: 1) favorite
items that have just plain worn out; 2) Items that they have never
worn; and 3) items that have been ruined. The stories behind each of
these items helped Levi's understand unmet needs and develop
strategies for how to address those needs with innovative products.
==> 4) Immersions and Interactive Presentations
This strategy engages internal audiences in order to help them
understand, retain and leverage trends in their marketing and
product initiatives. The insights collected through the above
activities must be communicated to marketing, merchandising and
design personnel that support the Levi's brands. They have used
diaries to bring the consumer to life, and presentations that
incorporate video showing customer quotes have been particularly
effective in communicating memorable insights. Immersion sessions
include a museum-like experience that engages with videos and
exhibits.
The Trend Commandments
In this session Larry Samuel, who is president of New York City-based
Culture Planning, gave a presentation discussing his book, "The Trend
Commandments (tm): Turning Cultural Fluency into Marketing
Opportunity." My review here will cover both his presentation and
the book, of which we were given a complimentary copy.
In the introduction to his book, Samuel makes the observation that
"Moses was without a doubt the go-to guy when it came to delivering
messages from the CCO (Chief Creation Officer) and making travel
plans but he was no marketing genius, trust me." The Trend
Commandments are intended to fill the gap and become a template for
marketers that want to be in the right place at the right time with
the right ideas.
Samuel defines a trend as nothing more (and nothing less) than a
particular expression or articulation of a society's values which
is in ascent, i.e., rising in popularity, status, worth, and power.
Samuel continues "Many people believe trends to be about the
latest, the hippest, the coolest, tipping us off to what's in
versus out, what's hot versus cold, what's new versus old. The
truth is that most trends are in fact not cool (or even 'trendy')
at all, having little or nothing to do with the fashion, hairstyle,
band or drink of the moment. Trends are exponentially more
democratic, populist, and, most importantly, opportunistic and
leverageable then coolness. To put it another way, coolness is
the guy or gal you date for kicks but trends are whom you take
home to mom or dad (or your board of directors)."
The 10 trend commandments are intended to provide a framework
around which you can ground your brand, and to help you choose
which marketing battles to fight. With that in mind, here is an
overview of each of the commandments:
Trend Commandment #1: Stir Passion
Passion consists of ideas, events, activities, or pursuits that
are grounded in powerful emotions. Passions say who you are not
only to others but to yourself as well. Passion almost always
leads to business opportunity, as all great success stories
are based in a deep emotional connection. One can think about
marketing as the challenge or opportunity to identify
sources of passion among consumers and to then make your
product or service part of that passion.
With each Commandment, Samuel provides ten trends that fall within
the domain of the Commandment, and then he suggests ten opportunities
to utilize the commandment by leveraging on current cultural trends.
I can't go into all 100 trends or opportunities within the scope of
this report but I can give you a flavor of his content with the 10
passion related opportunities that he outlined for Trend Commandment #1:
The dynamics of popular culture appear to be shifting as more
people demand to participate in its production rather than just
its consumption. The Internet, for example, has opened new windows
that allow each of us to express ourselves in new ways. We live in
a society where we all can be artists, writers, poets and
musicians if we so choose. Empowering consumers with the ability
to be creative is one of contemporary culture's dominant themes.
Trend Commandment #3: Declare Independence
The notion of independence is ingrained in the American cultural
DNA, an essential part of who we are as a people. Alternative
culture almost always feeds mass or mainstream culture,
functioning as a leading indicator of what will soon be
considered conventional. Marketers will find success by aligning
themselves with consumers' instincts and drive to be independent.
Trend Commandment #4: Deliver Experience
In a society of middle class abundance, many of our basic
possessive needs have been met. As that occurs, we are seeing a
wholesale shift in the concepts of identity and status, changing
our individual and collective orientation from materialism towards
experience. While possessions are symbolic reflections of who we
are, experiences are actual and are who we are. Marketers need to
shift from a passive voice to an active one, and translate their
products' reason-for-being into experiential terms. They need to
think of consumers as anthropomorphic sharks constantly feeding
on new experiences to gobble up and digest.
Trend Commandment #5: Get Smart
Living in an information age, smartness has emerged as a key
component in our cultural DNA. Smartness has has infiltrated
and infused everyday life, paralleling the evolution of the
computer chip and the Internet. Marketers need to incorporate
"smarter is better" into their strategies, as smartness will
only increase in worth and status in the future.
Trend Commandment #6: Nurture Nature
Our postwar love and trust in chemistry and weird science is
as dead as the Cold War, replaced by a desire to breathe, eat,
and wear nature as much as possible. Today's environmentalism is
different than previous ones because it is part of the system
rather than in opposition to it. Consumers want to celebrate
nature both at home and away from home.
Trend Commandment #7: Build Community
A marketer's real job is to create communities around their
brands, turning their brand into a community. There is a feeling
by many today that relationships with others matter more than
money, success, and material items. Consumers choose certain
brands because they believe they and the brand have something
in common, that the brand is essentially a community that the
consumer wants to join. For marketers, building communities
around brands is a way to infuse them with a form of power that
exceeds any particular feature or benefit they may offer. The
challenge for marketers is to grow their communities without
diluting their power, which is a tricky balancing act.
Trend Commandment #8: Surf the Edge
Trendsetters that are on the edge are not concerned with what
people think or how it looks. Edge culture is willing to take
risks, look foolish, and face social ostracism. For marketers,
surfing the edge means allowing the margins to seep into your
corporate culture, brands, and plans, incorporating their
essence into products and services.
Trend Commandment #9: Think (and Act) Global
Thinking globally and acting locally may have been a sound
philosophy as recently as a decade ago but now such an idea
is untenable. With the end of the Cold War and the rise of a
communication medium that makes having intimate relationships
with someone half way around the world an everyday affair, it's
only natural that one should not only think global but act
global. From a marketer's perspective, many of the most
interesting, dynamic, and opportunistic ideas and things are
where disparate cultures intersect, creating synergistic hybrids
that never existed before.
Trend Commandment #10: Mine the Past
The faster we hurdle into the future, the more we seem to use
the past as a cultural anchor to slow down the pace of our
24/7 world and as a common denominator that our diverse,
fragmented society can share. We're preserving and honoring
the legacies of the past, reviving lost traditions and
experiences, and looking for the romance and glamor of the
past. Samuel urges marketers to view the past as a "post-modern
grab bag from which virtually anything and everything can be
retrieved and reconfigured."
In his book, Samuel also gives ten examples of the application
of each Commandment to ten sectors: Autos; Beauty;
Entertainment & Media; Fashion; Finance; Food & Beverage;
Healthcare; Retail; Technology; and Travel & Hospitality.
All in all, I found the observational synthesis presented by
Larry Samuel to be quite perceptive. The Commandments themselves
are not new observations, but Samuel has done an outstanding
job of thematically tying them together and relating them to how
marketers can use them to leverage on current trends. I recommend
his book, listed in the references below, if you are interested in
learning more.
Additional Reading:
Ethnography: A Tool for In-Depth Understanding
by Barbara Perry Associates (505) 743-2027
How the Y's are Different: Shifting Gender Roles
Among 20-26 Year Olds by Outlaw Consulting, Inc.,
November 2003
The Trend Commandments (TM): Turning Cultural Fluency
into Marketing Opportunity by Larry Samuel, 2003, ISBN 0-9724925-1-8.
Watch Me Now by Alison Stein Wellner, American
Demographics, October 2002.
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